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Kisumu Dala Finest Hangouts

We had not even had a chance to go have a beer in the recommended nightspots. Thank God, someone thought wisely to go with Airbnb as our accommodation plan, the previously suggested camping would have been a disaster in this rain.

And with the sun out, we were out parading our toned bodies on the Kisumu streets. Shorts, tank tops and shades, you would think we had those exotic Caribbean names; Samina Gonzalez Campbell would be mine!

A few minutes in the museum to refresh our Geography (or is it History), an hour at the Impala Sanctuary, then a ride in Lake Victoria in a boat that was surely a dare to life.

An hour more than we had floated away and it would have been filled with the water sipping from below. All this done without having a proper meal the whole day.


That quick breakfast before we were off to Kit Mikayi was the only meal we had had. The hunger pangs were vicious, food was needed! Anything lighter than Ugali was a no.

We are in a simple and neatly built shack. Four poles in each corner to hold the roof, rusted mabati with a few holes in them as our cover and a rolled up canvas to cover the sides. The floor is clean and nicely tiled. The whole place is open air. The kitchen is on the far end, we sit on the other end.

Eight wooden tables are arranged, with 4-6 plastic chairs that were evidently past their lifetime around them. The breeze from the lake is not as strong as you'd expect (we were later informed this is due to the presence of the water hyacinth, which act as wind breakers), but all the same a much welcomed breeze.

The sun is setting in the horizon, it's reflection on the calm waters of Lake Victoria mimicking the ending most of those western movies you watch. One Nairobian was wise enough (or a show-off) to carry a portable Hugo speaker and  'Dezo Dezo' by Tshala Muana is playing from the middle of our table.

It's 6.30PM at Lwang'ni Beach, Kisumu.


We have been here for approximately 30 minutes now, chatting away. Our meal is almost ready, I assume. When the fish is brought, we agree the waiting time was justified. It’s a fried fish the length of my hand.

It’s brown and shiny, more befitting for a food expo than what was going to happen in the next hour. Around it are vegetables that I’m not sure whether they are cooked or not, their original colors still the same.

Saturdays are supposed to be this good. Don't even try giving me that barbecue next to the pool in shorts and bikinis crap. Picnic lunch in Tsavo, Samburu or Amboseli comes close, but this right now (no, I'm actually busy typing now) is what you call magical afternoons.

Typing aside, I need to dig in.

Lwang’ni Beach is where you want to visit when you are in Kisumu. It should be your first stop. Lwang’ni means the place of houseflies in Dholuo. The name came about because of the many flies attracted by fish markets there.


Although the unpleasant name stuck, it is a sight to behold, offering not only exceptional fish delicacies but also water sports, bird watching and other recreational activities.

From our seats we can see planes taking off from Kisumu International Airport. I hope they stopped by Lwang’ni Beach!

With more people opting to head westwards for their holidays as opposed to the over-visited Coastal towns, places like Lwang’ni Beach offer a different experience you will not find anywhere else.

Ndere Island National Park, Ruma National Park, Kakamega Forest Reserve and Rusinga and Takawiri Islands are just some of the places you could visit from Kisumu.

Travel a little out of your ordinary, and remember to try that Lwang’ni Beach tilapia.


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